Tuesday 15 March 2011

El Bulli does Tapas


Tickets is the new Tapas Bar from the man behind El Bulli Ferran Adria & his brother Albert. I was told about this place by one of my chefs Ori who lives in that area of Barcelona, long story short my amazing girlfriend got us in.

On the day
I didn't know what to expect from Tickets it's pretty new (been open for 2 weeks) so reviews were few. I love what I do and I love to read about how far chefs take it in their food and El Bulli has been at the four front of that for years- taking the whole Molecular gastronomy jazz to another level.

So I had that sick feeling like the one on a first date sick, even though it was with my girlfriend Carla, our little Angel Bonnie-Rose and me. Roll up there a little early to have a look around, the front was set out like an art gallery a hanging installation of different styles, maps, little bits about El Bulli. Had a peek in the window and seen the Big Tweezers and got a bit more excited about the food. 




Sit down
The restaurant itself was big ish 80 covers I think, we got to sit in the area to see all the chefs at work which was amazing and to top it off Ferran Adria was sitting the same area eating with some friends.



We had the olives which were the spherification of olive in olive oil- they were great, burst in your mouth heaven.
 

Next tuna belly painted with Iberian cured ham fat, I mean who doesn't love fat? It was clever the way the ham fat flavoured the belly. 



 Spiced tomato tartare with crunchy bread. The tartare was what you would think but it was the bread that was the winner here three types: first a flat like wafer, second crunchy air pillow and third (the best one) was a cross between crackling and a poppadom. Amazing.



 Raw oyster with its pearl and sea lettuce juice. Looked very good the little pearl was a spherification of oyster water with edible glitter with the clear juice, but the oyster was a tad big for me but still cool.


Raw clams with garlic- I really enjoyed them they were in the half shell and had a roast garlic consomme jelly on top. It could be the dish that I think of every time I smell garlic.



Liquid ravioli with payoyo cheese, it was a reverse spherification of this cheese, had a strong flavour but didn't linger for long. Had a little bread crisp on top for a crunch. Nice & cheesy.
















Mollette with pickled pork & cheese was like the best McMuffin you have ever tasted. The muffin itself was light so when you pressed on it, it kind of deflated.


Peas with mint - this was in my top 5 of the meal. Simple but good. They were presented in this clear bag cut open at the table and mint removed. It looked like a hearty pea & ham soup but tasted fresh and sweet with a hint of mint and diced bacon through it. Loved it loved it loved it.



Tomatoes and strawberries in Mediterranean aroma with olive oil - another winner! What a combination. It was a slap sent from summer with a message did you miss me x.



Artichoke with crunchy cured ham's powder- arrived at the table in an artichoke shaped bowl when the lid was removed a big puff of smoke came out. Nice.



Rabbit with sparkling garlic mayonnaise. I was thinking all sorts about this one, like a fizzy mayonnaise?! But no. It was an airy mayonnaise using whipper. Still very nice.


Desserts
This is what we were both looking forward to. 

Orange iced drink with anisette- straight forward orange granita style in a frozen orange shell. Fresh, nice, bit of a let down for the price. I was imagining more of a frozen cocktail with more anise.



Liquorice dried meringue with white chocolate truffle and passion- mind blowing. There was a perfect dome of meringue which I am normally not a massive fan of, but this was light not to sweet, crunchy. Then you get into the center and there's a soft white chocolate truffle and out of nowhere this sour passion fruit bang hits you. Great 10/10. 



Hot chocolate fritters- another gem. I have no idea how they did this so perfect, but it was almost like beignet/ profiteroles deep fried but soft like a doughnut. They were packed full of this warm chocolate goo but there was no hole to inject the goo - I was stumped.



Ice cream for the little one, which arrived in an old fashioned ice cream trolley with a bell. 



And last but not least the almond and apricot sorbet warm cake. Like a chocolate fondant but without the chocolate, which I have tried to do before but got this raw taste which this one didn't have. Very nice. And the sorbet was intense, soft and moreish. Great way to finish.




This was one of the best meals I have had, no fuss, no potentiusness, no 'I am the best chef in the world', just a lot of fun. Go if you can.

I enjoyed how approachable the whole molecular ish / forward cooking was to everyone. Looking round the tables there was all kinds of people there- families, young, old, people on their own.

Sometimes as a chef you can get carried away with food and over complicate things. Too many elements I have done it before and probably will do it again, but I think that is how we move forward. Sometimes it just takes over.

 It was refreshing to see that things can be technically done but simply served, how amazing that one thing can be. I got a lot of inspiration from my lunch with the family and you can be sure to see that at our textures of green night. (On the 5th of April).

Photographs by Carla Grassy.

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