Wednesday 30 March 2011

Chilled tomato consommé with liquorice & whelks




There are two things that I love about this dish. First the combination of tomato & liquorice and second whelks.


It is not to far of a stretch of the imagination because anise and tomato go well together, but liquorice makes it and you can do so much with this, a jelly, a spherification, etc. 
You don't even have to clarify it, it's up there people I love it.


Whelks these poor bastards have a bad reputation, people think they are rubbery, chewy, tasteless and those of you who believe that are wrong. 
They need respect, a little bit of love, there are steps and rules almost in how to cook whelks. And everyone has their own ritual for example cook them in sea water or brine them in salt and vinegar for an hour.

Me first I wash the whelks to get rid of all the sand and grit, put them on a tray shell down so you can see the flesh and the hard flat thing attached that I call the nail. (which is important in the cooking progress)
I sprinkle a good handful of table salt over them, this helps rid the grit inside the beast.


Now put them back in the fridge to cure them for an hour or so. During that time make the court bouillon. After rinsing whelks I cooked them for 10-15 minutes, or until the nail peels of easily. 


You remove them from the shell and only want to keep the meaty part. Slice thin, finish with olive oil and a dash of chardonnay vinegar. Enjoy! 


Here served with tarragon & dill, confit yellow and red tomatoes, blanched tomatoes, basil chlorophyl and chopped salted liquorice.










Photography by Carla Grassy

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